Glyndwrs Way Day 1: Knighton to Felindre. 24.93km.
For the last ten days the weather forecast has shown warm sunshine for Knighton today, however we woke to grey, cloudy skies. The walk heads steeply uphill out of Knighton, quickly leaving Knighton behind and entering woodland that skirts Garth Hill. The path follows around Garth Hill and then heads down hill before turning right and heading very steeply uphill to Ebrandy House and fine views back down the valley to Knighton.
As the path heads back downhill we had our first encounter with serious mud in a field churned up by cattle. Dave followed the time honoured procedure of letting me go first and then stepping where I hadn’t sunk. The path regained firmer ground and headed through lovely fields. Lambs were everywhere and the sound of birds accompanied us the entire walk. We saw skylarks, buzzards, kites, jays, blackbirds amongst others. This section also provided entertainment in the form of a rally school that ran alongside the route.
We were soon in Lower Cefn Suran and then steeply downhill to Llangunllo. Unfortunately the GreyHound pub was not open on a Monday so we pressed on, climbing steadily uphill again through more farmland. The weather really closed in at this stage with very low cloud and constant drizzle. A forest offered respite and shelter for lunch. And as we finished lunch the cloud lifted, the rain stopped and we were rewarded with fine views across towards Rhayader.
The route took us across open moorland, shouldering Pool Hill, Stanky Hill and Black Mountain with fine views down the valleys that run off the hills before dropping steeply downhill to Felindre. This is lovely, remote, peaceful walking, we didn’t see another walker all day with only animals and birds for company.
Tomorrow Felindre to Abbeycwnhir. Before that a well earned beer and some food.
Glyndwr’s Way Day 2: Felindre to Abbeycwmhir. 25.93km
We left Felindre with more overcast skies but with a forecast of better weather to come. The path climbs steadily out of the valley and soon we were up high walking through good farmland with lots of new born lambs gambolling around us. The views back were impressive and we gained our first glimpse of the sun.
Yesterday we didn’t see a soul whilst waking but soon we encountered a shepherd who stopped for a chat. When asked how the lambing was going he replied with the wise words ‘there’s always trouble but it’s always alright’. Leaving him behind we carried on into an attractive wide bottomed valley. By now the sun was out and the walking was wonderful.
The route saw us climb out of that valley up to the edges of a wind farm. A lot of people don’t like them but we both agreed that as well as being good for the environment they have a certain peaceful aesthetic. From there the path turns past Castell-Y-Blaidd (castle of the wolf) a Norman Defensive structure and then along Fron Top which offered views south to the Brecon Beacons and north to the edge of Snowdonia (although too hazy today to pick out specific mountains) before dropping steadily down to LLanbadarn Ffyndd. Of course the pub there was closed but we enjoyed lunch by the attractive church before continuing back uphill towards Moel Dod.
After two days our routine is now becoming established. Silence (or rather desperate panting as we go uphill). Nonsense chat the rest of the way. Todays topic was what super power you’d pick if you could. Mine was time travel, Dave’s was teleportation. This, along with outstanding views kept us occupied as we skirted behind Moel Dod before emerging into the windy ridge line to more fine views.
The path descends to cross a road before climbing again to the trig point on Ysgwd-Ffordd with 360 degree views. Soon we were heading down through attractive forestry where we saw hares and deer before crossing Bachell Brook and following the road and then forestry tracks to Abbeycwmhir (Abbey of the long valley).
A great days walking with fab views along the whole route. Tomorrow promises a windy (and less sunny) stroll from Abbeycwmhir to Llanidloes.
Glyndwr’s Way Day 3: Abbeycwmhir to Llanidloes. 25.35kms.
Another large and welcome breakfast (despite the exercise we are not losing weight) and we were saying farewell to Abbeycwmhir. It’s a charming village, great if simple local pub (The Happy Union) which seemed to be the heart of the local community as well as the remains of the Abbey and a fine church. The route out took us back past the church and into the forestry behind.
A lovely stroll through forestry followed before the path drops, briefly joins a road and then heads back up Upper Esgair Hill through sheep farming land. It was brighter than the forecast had suggested, however the wind was gusty and got stronger as we headed uphill. We have seen precious few people over the walk so far, but at the top of this hill we bumped into our first dog walker.
From there the path drops to the village of Bwlch-y-sarnau. Here we found the Glyndwr Way cafe, in reality the porch of the community centre with a kettle, tea bags and coffee plus a loo. It may be simple but on bad weather days it must be a welcome respite for walkers.
The path then drops into more forestry before rising to shoulder several hills with great views down and across the valley. We took a snack break at a convenient bench and then lunch at the end of this stretch enjoying the fine views.
Immediately after lunch the walk descended steeply into a steep sided wooded valley. Crossing the stream at the bottom we then zig zagged very slowly back up the other side. We met another local resident at the top who was keen to chat and we were glad of the rest.
The path continued to rise up to Pen-Y-Banc with great views down the valley. The path then turns back and crossed another steep woody valley. Around this time Dave invented a game to name Artists / Songs with links to sheep. He started with Baabara Streisand, moved through Adam Lambert, hit the depths with La Lamba and then won with Britney Shears and her greatest hit Clip me baby one more time.
Thankfully now the path joined a lane that lead straight into Llandiloes and we made decent time over the last few km to the Mount Inn. Tomorrow Llandiloes to Dylife but first beer and food.
Glyndowers Way Day 4: Llanidloes to Dylife. 23.25km
The sun was shining, not a cloud in the sky although the wind was cold as we left Llandiloes across the bridge that spans the River Severn, which has it’s source on Pumlumon Fawr to the South West. Although close to source it’s by far the biggest river we have crossed so far. The path took us uphill through old woodland before rising through more fields of sheep and lambs.
The walk so far has been one of managed farmland and forests. Today was our first evidence of an industrial heritage as the chimneys of the Van lead mine stood out across the valley. Very soon we were in sight of the impressive Clywedog Dam, the highest in Wales when first built. It was built to prevent flooding and control water flows in the upper Severn Valley and now hosts a sailing club and trout fishing.
At the foot of the damn lies the impressive remains of Bryntail Mine, another former lead mine. It was sheltered and sunny here so we lingered a while, exploring the ruins and reading the notice boards before starting the steep, lung bursting climb to the other side of the valley. We were rewarded by excellent views of the dam and reservoir behind it, however inevitably the cafe was closed (Dave is beginning to get expresso withdrawal syndrome).
The paths meanders steeply up and down the side of the reservoir for a while before leaving to go through Hafren Forest. A series of paths and tracks took us through the forest. In one section a viewing station looks over an Osprey nest. A kindly couple lent us their binoculars and Dave was able to spot the Osprey in its nest (my eyesight not up to it).
As we left Hafren we had one last hard climb to the top of Llechwedd Du which afforded more fine views before dropping down to Dylife.
We’ve now covered over 100km and it shows in our daily averages.
Monday - 3.76 km/ph
Tuesday - 3.63 km/ph
Wednesday - 3.51 km/ph
Today - 3.23 km/ph
Today was a stunning days walking, varied terrain, interesting industrial heritage, great views and unusual wildlife.
Tomorrow a far damper affair as we do Dylife to Machynlleth.
Glyndwr’s Way Day 5: Dylife to Machynlleth. 26.04km
We said today would be soggy and it was. It started raining as we left Dylife. Dylife today is a tiny hamlet of a few cottages, a closed pub (The Star Inn) and the spoil left over from lead mining in the 19th century. Lead mining here dates back to Roman times and at peak production in the mid 19th century Dylife was a thriving town of up to a 1000 people with a church, school and pubs. As the lead industry declined people moved away and the houses, school and church were demolished leaving the hamlet we set out from today.
We climbed the ridge and donned full waterproofs at the top as the rain strengthened, then headed west past the remains of a Roman Fortlet. The path dipped to cross the confluence of two streams with an impressive waterfall ahead before rising and crossing open moorland to the lonely lake of Glaslyn. From there the path ascends to the highest point of Glyndwr’s Way at 500m on the slopes of Foel Fabian with great views back of Glaswyn.
The rain had been falling steadily to this point, with Dave and I debating whether we were experiencing heavy drizzle, light rain or just rain. As we started to descend the rain stopped for a while giving the chance to dry out a bit. Clouds drifted up the valley as we descended and we walked alongside woods with birdsong to accompany our progress.
At the bottom we crossed a river, before starting to climb back up the other side of the valley. The rain had started again as we climbed steadily upwards, before heading into forestry. We took lunch under the spurious shelter of the trees, before heading back out into the rain.
The afternoon passed crossing several wooded valleys. As we climbed one slope the rain stopped and the sun caught up with us briefly. The views back to Foel Fabian were stunning as the cloud lifted.
We’d just dried out when another heavy shower appeared, this time with some hail mixed in for fun. Thankfully this shower passed quite quickly and as we emerged from more forestry we had fab views across to Cadair Idris.
Soon Machynlleth was in sight, although that proved a tease as we stayed high, skirting around the town and briefly joining the Welsh Coastal path to head down and into the town where we passed Owain Glyndwr’s Senedd or Parliament House from when we was crowned Prince of Wales in 1404.
Despite the weather this was a day of stunning views and much history. And we have now completed the crossing of Wales from East to West. Tomorrow we head north east, heading for Llanbrynmair.
Glyndwr’s Way Day 6: Machynlleth to Llanbrynmair. 27.56km
After the sogginess of yesterday the sun had returned for today. Today’s walk started by following the line of the Dovey Valley, and we left Machynlleth climbing slighty through country lanes and a golf course to the small
village of Forge which has a lovely restored Mill.
From there the path really started to climb to pen-rhos-bach before descending once again to the village of Penegoes and then up and over another hill to the village of Abercegir. This is lovely countryside with good paths and trails, however the consistent up and down is hard on both legs and lungs.
We climbed out of Abercegir skirting up and around the hill of Rhos y silio with now fine views back down the Dovey Valley and across to Cadair Idris and the mountains of southern snowdonia, the views of which kept us company for most of the remaining walk. We shopped for a break at the top next to a ruined farmhouse before heading steeply downhill to the village of Cemmaes Road. The guide book mentioned both shop and pub here but of course both were inevitably closed.
We took lunch in a wood just outside the village, probably our warmest lunch stop yet. Post lunch saw us steadily climbing again up to another hill with more and final fine views of Cadair Idris as a reward before leaving those views behind as we crossed the flanks of Moel Eiddew. From there the path climbed up and through a forest before turning and dropping us a long way down to Llanbrynmair.
This was our biggest climbing day at 891m and as result our quietest day as well. Tomorrow we have our longest day at 30km planned and weather doesn’t look good. But first more beer and food (assuming the pub here does open!)
Glyndwr’s Way Day 7: Llanbrynmair to Lake Vyrnwy. 31.26km
Our longest day (hence late posting) at 31km and 960m of ascent.
We had a very large breakfast looking at the Welsh Dragon who seems to be housed in a large greenhouse outside a cafe in Llanbrynmair. Having eaten our body weight in Welsh breakfast we set out back sigh the road we came in on to rejoin Glyndwr’s Way.
Soon we were climbing out of the valley, a tricky bridleway proving slow and hard going, before we climbed to a hill with great views at Bwlch Glyn. From there the path headed into a forest. The tracks made for good walking and we made up some of the time lost on the earlier bridleway.
Once we left the forest the path dropped into an attractive valley where lanes allowed us to keep up the good pace. That slowed though as we headed back uphill to the boggy slopes of Pen Coed. This was muddy, slow going and we were glad to get past this section. The weather which was forecast wet was holding up well and apart from one heavy shower, we were pleasantly surprised that the rain was holding off.
From Pen Coed the path drops back to the valley and the village of Llangadfan. There to our amazement we found a cafe that was actually open, albeit had stopped serving hot food ten mins earlier, but we at least managed to get a coffee and cake.
From there the path headed steadily uphill through farmland to Dyfnant forest. The forests in mid wales are almost all commercial forests of fir / spruce with dark interiors and little wildlife but the tracks through make for easy walking.
The route heads back down to a river crossing and then back very steeply up through another wood, before crossing the hill and and heading back down to Lake Vyrnwy. Fortunately for us the original B&B we had booked had cancelled so we were upgraded to the rather lovely Vyrnwy Hotel.
Tomorrow we move on to Meifod, a mere 25km, assuming our broken bodies recover from today.
Glyndwr’s Way Day 8: Lake Vyrnwy to Meifod. 26.22km
It was raining very heavily when we woke up and the forecast was poor for the whole day. However our luck was holding and as we set out it was only raining very lightly. We dropped from the hotel to the Lake Vyrnwy Dam. The river was dammed in the 1880’s with two villages having to be relocated as a result. The water is pumped 68 miles through an aqueduct to Liverpool to provide drinking water.
While man made on this damp, misty morning the lake was scenic, atmospheric, serene and utterly beautiful. We dallied around here for a while taking in the scene before crossing the impressive dam itself.
The path parallels the river, through woodland and farmland before dropping to cross the river and then heading uphill and back into the Dyfnant Forest. Here we encountered a diversion that took us out of the forest due to a collapsed structure (which from guidebook we guess is a set of 130 wooden steps). The alternative lane walk gave us some great views (there is something wonderful about rising to the top of a ridge or road with new vistas opening up ahead of you) before we dropped to the village of Pont Llogel which had a shop that was actually open.
It was here that we also crossed the Anne Griffiths path. Anne was the pre-eminent Welsh Hymn writer in the Welsh Language and lived in this area and has a 7 mile route that crosses and sometimes joins the Glyndwr Way. From Pont Llogel the path heads through farmland and open common land before rejoining the River Vyrnwy at Dolonag where we stopped for lunch.
The next section follows the river closely and was a lovely stretch, with the river dropping through a series of falls and rapids as we strolled alongside, with other streams tumbling down to join the river. The path then leaves the river to climb high above it. Here we encountered a field with two pigs. The one I named Gunter is shown in the photos and was very friendly.
The path drops back into Pontrobert before heading back out through more farmland to Meifod. By now we were both feeling the affects of yesterdays long stretch and todays walk this was a bit of a quiet trudge. Tomorrow we have a shorter section (18km) to Welshpool and a chance to rest up a bit before the last two days of the Offa’s Dyke back down to Knighton.
Glyndwr’s Way Day 9: Meifod to Welshpool: 18.5km
Today we completed Glyndwr’s Way. We still have two days walking to get back to Knighton and the car, however we have completed the official national trail.
And what a walk it is. Physically demanding, each day (apart from today) we covered around 25km and most of that was either uphill or downhill. A key characteristic of this walk is that there is little flat ground, you are mostly climbing or descending. There are huge rewards to that; the views on most stages are stunning. Distant mountains, verdant valleys, forests, lakes, rivers and streams.
There is a joy to be had on a long distance path. The sense of journey, of moving from place to place that wakens the nomadic in you. You get to see the countryside in slow motion and up close, in a way that no other form of transport offers. Glyndwr’s Way is a way to get to know mid Wales. It’s remote and quiet. In 9 days we have seen 5 other walkers, 9 dog walkers and 3 locals in villages (not counting people we’ve met where we have been staying). Mid Wales is empty - you can go all day without seeing a soul and that makes it a magical place to walk.
And while it’s truly beautiful it’s also not entirely natural. While mid wales wears its industrial past very lightly when compared to the north or south, we were conscious that this beautiful land is very much shaped by humans. The forests are commercially planted, mainly of fir, spruce and pine, too dense for the sun to reach the floor so nothing else grows or thrives there. The small pockets of native woodlands we passed hummed with life in contrast. The lowlands are grazed fields filled with sheep while the uplands are bare and heavily grazed by the same flocks of sheep (at some point in the not too distant past these hills would have been covered with native trees) This area has been described as the Cambrian Desert for the lack of biodiversity- and having walked through it, for all its beauty it lacks wildness. Welsh Lamb is a product to be proud of, but we have to find a way to balance our need for food, for farmers to have profitable businesses and to meet the wider needs for nature to recover.
Todays walk was wonderful. The sun shone as we left Meifod, crossing the lovely River Vyrnwy one last time before walking through woods and fields, up and past the pretty lake of Lyn Du. From there we crossed farmland and mixed woods to reach the final viewing point of Y Golfa. From here the views abounded in all directions and we sat here for a while to enjoy the views. From there we dropped into Welshpool and the finish point.
There is always a sadness when you complete a long distance trail, that sense of a journey at an end. We still have a couple of days walking to enjoy before returning home to our patient families. Even before that though it’s time to have a celebratory beer (or two) and a curry.
Glyndwr’s Way is a fantastic walk. The people we met are friendly, supportive and helpful. The landscape offers much to enjoy and the route, whilst challenging, is an amazing experience. This is my first extended trip to this part of mid Wales. It won’t be my last.