And we are off. Sedbury Cliffs to Monmouth today, 30km to cover. Welsh weather is giving us a typical start…

Offas Dyke Day 1 31km covered. Some stunning scenery with views across both Wye and Severn rivers, Tintern Abbey from Devils Pulpit and beautiful woodlands with carpets of bluebells. But it was tough going with a full rucksack….both slightly knackered tonight.

Offas Dyke day 2: Monmouth to Pandy, 27.4km.
Todays walk was stunning, through the Monmouthshire countryside and cider orchards. Far reaching views over Skirrid, Sugar Loaf and the Black Mountains (which we tackle tomorrow). We found a weather gnome, visited the White Castle and found a pub that was actually open.
Sadly the pub at the campsite is closed so it was expedition food this evening, at least rucksacks will be fractionally lighter tomorrow.

Offa’s Dyke Day 3: Pandy to Hay on Wye via Llanthoney. 27km
A really tough day as Dave aggravated an old shoulder injury and sadly had to drop out at Llanthony. Really sad to see him leave but have decided to press on alone.
Weather also foul, we saw nothing on the ridges as the photos show. And then it rained most of the afternoon.
Thankfully Sophie has come to my rescue and offered me a bed and change to dry out for the night.

Offas Dyke Day 4: Hay on Wye to Kington, 23km. So after the challenges of yesterday today was a pleasant contrast. It’s amazing how the weather can make a difference to mood. The rain stopped as Sophie dropped me back to Hay, and by 8.30 the sun was out and blue sky had appeared. I found the perfect coffee shack just as I was leaving Hay so started the walk in a good mood. The first part walks alongside the Wye before climbing up alongside woodland and then farmland.
I found a pub open at Gladestry so was able to have late lunch refresher. Then the highlight of the day, the walk over Hergest Ridge. Some of the most far reaching views I’ve seen, covering the Brecon Beacons, Black Mountain, Black Mountains, throughly to mid wales and across Herefordshire. Truly stunning. Have finished the day at a lovely campsite in Kington.
And best news is that Dave maybe able to rejoin for a day walk in a few days time.

Offas Dyke Day 5: Kington to Knighton. 23km
Another lovely days walking. You leave Kington climbing steeply uphill, through the Kington Golf Course and up to lovely views back over the Black Mountains and Hergest Ridge.
This section follows much of the original Dyke, which we hadn’t seen since day 1. In some places it was much eroded but in others was still 8 meters high and impressive in scale. It’s amazing yo be walking by and on something that is over 1200 years old.
This section has amazing views over border country and I crossed the border on several occasions. Knighton is in Wales and I’ve heard Welsh spoken a lot, but my campsite which is only a ten minute walk away is in Shropshire.
Tomorrow the Shropshire Hills - apparently the hardest day of the walk.

Offas Dyke Day 6: Knighton to Mellington Hall. 23km.
Today covered the Shropshire Switchbacks, a series of ridges and valleys that run at ninety degrees to the path. So a lot of steep climbing and steep descent. While it was challenging I found I really enjoyed todays walking. The weather was cloudy and overcast, but a good temperature for the amount of climbing and descending required.
The day starts with a steep, lung bursting climb out of Knighton, making me instantly regret my choice of full cooked breakfast in one of Knighton’s cafes. Once at the top though you are instantly rewarded with lovely views across Shropshire and Powys.
The path again follows the route of the Dyke pretty faithfully - how / why they built it on some of the slopes is beyond me.
Soon you reach the switchbacks and the steep climbing and descending that gives this stage it’s tough reputation. You are rewarded though towards the end with views over the Vale of Montgomery and the next few days walking.
Today also marked the passing of the halfway stage.

Offas Dyke Day 7. Mellington Hall to Buttlington. 22km.
A much easier stretch today as I crossed the vale of Montgomery. Flat walking alongside the Dyke through lovely countryside dominated the morning. I was disappointed that Fordhams pub was now an Indian Restaurant (and not open at lunch) and there was no shop.
The afternoon saw me climbing again up to Beacon Ring, an old hill for. Although the way up was steep, it climbed through gorgeous pine forests. The small of pine and sound of birdsong made the climb easier, as did the shade the trees offered.
The top yielded yet more stunning views, including over to Cadir Idris far to the west. Then a steady walk downhill to the Green Dragon at Buttlington. Tomorrow Dave Hughes rejoins me for the day

Offas Dyke Day 8: Buttlington to Llanymynech. 17km.
The return of Dave Hughes.
This was a lovely flat stage, following the River Severn and Montgomery Canal. The highlight though was the return of Dave, who I met at the just short of the halfway stage. And he’d brought lunch (and I later discovered also clean clothes - thanks to my lovely wife).
We discovered a wondetful little stop for cake with an honesty box before joining the canal for the last few miles back to Llanymynech.
Only 17km covered today, but stunning countryside and industrial heritage before the return of the hills tomorrow

Offas Dyke Day 9. Llanymynech to Trevor. 27km.
This was a great days walking. The morning was accompanied by Dave Hughes. We climbe out of Llanymynech up to an old quarry which is now a nature reserve which offered a great view back over the last two days. Rolling countryside followed before another climb up to Moelydd Uchaf, which gave 360 degree views. A drop down to Trefonen found us with a shop open for refreshments. Sadly that was the point that Dave had to turn back to the car and home.
The next stage bought lovely forest walking before more rolling countryside and views over Chirk castle. As I had nowhere booked to stay tonight I decided to press on and left Chirk Mill behind go climb anagi. Over to Pontcysyllte. The route follows the Llangollen Canal over the aquaduct which is stunning.
Found a pub for food but looks like a wild camp later tonight.

Offas Dyke Day 10. Trevor to Llandegla. 20km.
This was a stunning days walking. As I wild camped yesterday night I needed a very early start, but was rewarded with seeing the sunrise over the hills. Breakfast was taken at the top of the first hill with views over Llangollen and the ruined castle of Dinas Bran.
The walk then contoured around a long hill side halfway above the valley floor with impressive crags above. After the flatter sections of the vale of Montgomery this felt like a return to the mountains, with scree slopes above and below and a feeling of exposure as the path dropped steeply to my left.
After a few miles the path dropped to a road that led through stunning moorland with views over the mountains to come tomorrow. It poured down over this section, another taste of what I can expect from tomorrow.
Leaving the moors the path dropped through to Llandegla forest and then to Llandegla itself where there is a fab community cafe that sorted lunch. Given my early start I’d arrived in Llandegla earlier than usual so spent a leisurely afternoon at the campsite. Only 46 km Prestatyn from here and tomorrow I cover 27 of those across the Clwydian Hills.

Offas Dyke Day 11: Llandegla to Borfari. 28km
This was a big, long but hugely rewarding days walking crossing the Clwydian hills. The day didn’t start out so well witn dreadful weather, and despite delaying the start by having breakfast in Llandegla’s excellent cafe eventually I had to start out. For the first couple of hours it rained and viability was limited but eventually the weather started to improve and I was rewarded with views.
On this ridge you can see the upcoming weather - mid morning I could see blue sky In the distance that foretold that the rain would ease to showers. Lunchtime in could see the showers heading in, some rushing past in the valleys below and some washing over me. Late afternoon I could see blue sky ahead - and was rewarded by late afternoon sunshine and stunning views.
To the north ahead of me the Irish Sea and coast, where I should finish tomorrow. To the west the mountains of Snowdonia, 35 mile away but clearly identifiable, Snowdon, Tryfan, Y Garn, Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn, ranged in a line parallel to my route. To the right Liverpool could be glimpsed in the distance.
A campsite in Bodari for the night with a pun for food. Tomorrow a short 20km to the finish.

Offas Dyke: Day 12 Bodfari to Prestatyn.
I’ve finished. 177 miles done. It’s an incredible walk, with fabulous scenery across the whole route.
Todays 20km we’re a bit harder than expected, the climb out of Bodfari is pretty brutal, but you are rewarded with fine views across to Snodonia and back along the way you have come. The route keeps up the tradition of steep climbs and descents all day, eventually bringing you out on the cliffs behind Prestatyn and then through the town itself to the finish point.
This is an incredible route to do. The scenery and views are extraordinary across the whole route. But it’s not just the scenery, the slow pace of long distance walking seems to slow everything down, days mean little, dates even less. You have time to pause and see the houses, people, wildlife, mountains and rivers as you wander past. It’s physically demanding but mentally wonderful.
Also time to mention some of the people I have met along the way. Dr Judy and her husband Simon who I have seen most days, shared dinner with one evening and who were wandering down to the finish point as I was wandering back to the train station. Steve and Tim, who Dave and I camped next to in Pandy at the end of day 2, and who invited me to join them when Dave had to drop out (I declined as their timetable was slower than I wanted to go). Kevin and Annie who I also saw most days and who finished about an hour ahead - they were leaving the bar as I entered. Miriam and Thomas, a lovely Slovenian couple I met in Hay and in Kington - who were going much faster than me, but other walkers coming the other way would tell me of their progress. There were numerous others travelling both ways who I stopped and spent minutes talking about the route, there is a real community amongst those walking, and a telegraph road where news passes amongst walkers and locals of those who have passed by earlier.
I need to give huge thanks to Dave Hughes for all the support, encouragement and logistical support. Gutted we couldn’t finish together but loved the stages we could do together.
Also a huge thanks to Sophie Whittall again for scooping me up a cold, wet, Hay night and feeding me and giving me somewhere warm and dry to sleep, I’m forever grateful.
To all those who have liked, commented and messaged their support, thank you. It really helps at the end of a long days walking.
And lastly thanks to Sara, Cerys and Jack for giving me the time to do this and for their endless love and support. Can’t wait to see you all later this evening.